Reading is Cool.

Training in Brazil

Rio is a city in black and white, hemmed in by mountains that loom down tall, narrow alleys. Copacabana bursts into technicolor as buildings give way to beach. The people move, like a parade, on a sidewalk parallel the shore, their conversations muted to me, save for...

People change, and so do blogs

I am mildly compelled to explain my long writing hiatus, but let’s just say: I’ve been busy and move on. This is where I’m at today: Something unexpected happened when I started publishing this blog; lots of people began to read it. And thanks to my well-spent...

Symbolism

I’m sitting, knees to chest, in the sand at Turtle Beach. Everything is monochrome. Sky, ocean, beach; muted. The ocean heaves in slow motion and I watch the guys catching waves, also in slow motion. I paddled out and felt weak. I felt watched. Like I didn’t belong....

No Pressure

I walk out on the pier. The sun cuts shadows into the cement in a way that seems to slow everything down. My eyes have to adjust to make out the guys in the water. It’s windy; I have to tie my hair back. There is a couple next to me. They’re young. The girl is holding...

Girl in Just a Shirt

A package arrived at my door in the normal way. I saw just the shadow of the mailman descending the driveway as I opened the door to retrieve it. I sat alone at the kitchen table in the afternoon sun to open the box. Inside were...

Debby Does Katrina

I meet Alexis in the Lido parking lot for the second day in a row. We drive. Tropical Storm Debby is churning up the ocean and pissing rain on everything. We get out to look at The Street and the ocean is a stranger, the seascape so heaving and unfamiliar I get a...

One of the Guys [Part 2]

If you haven't read Part One... click here. 11am Tuesday. Me, Brad and John get out to take a break and decide to go have breakfast. I’m hungry as hell and dying for coffee. We eat omelettes and tease each other. We are in Bradenton, but it could be Nicaragua— I feel...

One of the Guys [Part 1]

Monday 930pm text conversation: Brad: Surfing tomorrow. Maybe East Coast. Maybe here. Me: I'm in. Don't care where. Brad: I'll be at your house at 530am. Me: Ok. Tuesday 530am Due to a grave oversight on my part, there is no coffee. The early morning Florida gray...

The Sweet Spot

The wind whips through my office window and I feel it in my chest, as if the sea and I are tethered by a cord that is tugged by the wind. I almost hear words on it, calling me to sea like the neighbor kids calling to me from below my bedroom window when I was little....

See You Tomorrow Night!

The Compound Presents 1ft @ 2s | Numero Dos Tomorrow night, Saturday, April 14th from 7-10pm, The Compound is hosting its second annual surf art exhibition to benefit Mission Mexico, a children's refuge in Southern Mexico. The event is free, but bring your wallet....

It’s Summer Again

It's Summer here. Officially. My wetsuits, gloves and booties are all packed away (OK, they aren't packed away, they are on the bathroom floor where I pulled them out of my surf bag-- same difference). Last week brought a little swell. I ended up meeting Brad at Lido....

Surviving the Flat Spell

Flat spell. Such an apt name. As a surfer, a flat spell can cast a shadow over my life so dark that everything looks grey and dull. I just read an article in Surfer Magazine about how surfing affects serotonin levels. Surfers, apparently, are less depressed than...

You Keep Me Safe

This blog is like me. On the surface it is one thing. But if the light hits it right, you can see through to the scaffolding that holds it all up. The exterior is arbitrary. This blog is not about surfing, love, design or vanity or even inspiration. Its about writing....

Honey Badger Says…

I worship hard work & persistence as if they were gods. Not because I believe life to be a meritocracy, but because life knocks you down. The only way to succeed is to get back up. Lately, life has been knocking me down a lot (often literally), only to double back...

Attitude is Everything

In New Smyrna you can drive on the beach. You drive really slow so as not to run over the small children who will dart out in front of you like wild animals; and you park on the beach (very carefully, so as not to flatten the taut ass of a Bud Light drinker who has...

The Big Bang (Continued)

The highway to Chad’s is straight and long. It’s nighttime. My head still hurts and I’m uncomfortable alone. Since the concussion, I feel lost without the context of another person. I don’t trust my thoughts. Everything is confusing. Beside the highway, I see a train...

The Big Bang

It was dark in the hallway. The thick, inky kind of darkness that erases everything, including yourself, paints it all black.  From the light switch to my bedroom is six quick paces. Enough time, apparently, to build some serious momentum. I was on a mission to reach...

I am Unshakable.

It’s cold now. The kind of cold that makes changing into your wetsuit in the parking lot seem like a nearly insurmountable obstacle. And taking it off? Forget it. Fingers numb, fumbling for your key while the wind whips your face.My favorite part is attempting to...

Page 1 of 212