Waves in the Gulf are like Christmas, and this Sunday Santa came. The line-up was packed with giddy children scrambling for presents. I was one of them. You never know what the vibe in the line-up will be, but Sunday morning at Lido the stars aligned and the place was teeming with joy.
Words are powerful. One seemingly insignificant sentence can alter your whole life. Our lives are shaped by perception. It is not the hard facts of life that form our reality, but the lens through which we view them that does. We construct a personal context and all life’s events occur inside it.
I started this project as half of what I thought was a hot, happy, surfing couple. You know, chasing waves and dreams together—unstoppable, unshakable. Well, as if to illustrate my theory that surfing represents in miniature, life as a whole, this project changed before it even began.