Fear & The Pop Up
This last swell was full of exciting firsts; driving alone from break to break listening to Rage Against the Machine too loud, struggling through a tough paddle-out only to emerge into the line-up alongside Brad (awkward!), inadvertently picking up a hot date on the beach (more, please!), and catching lots of waves.
There is Only the Stoke
Everyone struggles, some people spend their lives being defined by struggle and others by the surviving of it. As surfers, we do not differentiate between struggle and survival. There is only the stoke.
