I am Unshakable.

I am Unshakable.

Posted by: on Jan 6, 2012 | 8 Comments

photo scott braun

It’s cold now. The kind of cold that makes changing into your wetsuit in the parking lot seem like a nearly insurmountable obstacle. And taking it off? Forget it.

Crankypants

Crankypants

Posted by: on Dec 23, 2011 | 12 Comments

When I was with Brad (before I surfed), I used to pray that the ocean would be flat on Christmas. For Brad, waves trumped Holiday (and Katrina). And while I still wouldn’t ditch my loved ones on Christmas to shred, now I relate to the desire.

Time in the Water

Time in the Water

Posted by: on Dec 6, 2011 | 14 Comments

photo Scott Braun

As I paddled confidently against the drift, jockeying for position among the other wetsuit warriors at Lido last week, I was struck by a realization: I was at home here.

On Limits.

On Limits.

Posted by: on Nov 18, 2011 | 5 Comments

photo Scott Braun

It’s warm in my bed. Cozy. I was laying there a few minutes ago. Trying to sleep.

I’m here now. At my desk, pen in hand in the half-dark. Bed-headed and pillow-faced, attempting to excavate a seed of authenticity from the pile of debris that is the current state of my psyche.