It’s Summer Again

It’s Summer Again

Posted by: on Apr 12, 2012 | 8 Comments

It’s Summer here. Officially. My wetsuits, gloves and booties are all packed away (OK, they aren’t packed away, they are on the bathroom floor where I pulled them out of my surf bag– same difference).

Surviving the Flat Spell

Surviving the Flat Spell

Posted by: on Mar 27, 2012 | 5 Comments

Flat spell. Such an apt name. As a surfer, a flat spell can cast a shadow over my life so dark that everything looks grey and dull. I just read an article in Surfer Magazine about how surfing affects serotonin levels. Surfers, apparently, are less depressed than average folk because we spend so much time in the ocean.

Attitude is Everything

Attitude is Everything

Posted by: on Feb 9, 2012 | 9 Comments

photo scott braun

In New Smyrna you can drive on the beach. You drive really slow so as not to run over the small children who will dart out in front of you like wild animals; and you park on the beach (very carefully, so as not to flatten the taut ass of a Bud Light drinker who has positioned herself precariously between two parked cars).

The Big Bang (Continued)

The Big Bang (Continued)

Posted by: on Jan 18, 2012 | 11 Comments

The highway to Chad’s is straight and long. It’s nighttime. My head still hurts and I’m uncomfortable alone. Since the concussion, I feel lost without the context of another person. I don’t trust my thoughts.