One of the Guys [Part 2]

One of the Guys [Part 2]

If you haven’t read Part One… click here. 11am Tuesday. Me, Brad and John get out to take a break and decide to go have breakfast. I’m hungry as hell and dying for coffee. We eat omelettes and tease each other. We are in Bradenton, but it could be...
One of the Guys [Part 1]

One of the Guys [Part 1]

Monday 930pm text conversation: Brad: Surfing tomorrow. Maybe East Coast. Maybe here. Me: I’m in. Don’t care where. Brad: I’ll be at your house at 530am. Me: Ok. Tuesday 530am Due to a grave oversight on my part, there is no coffee. The early morning...
It’s Summer Again

It’s Summer Again

It’s Summer here. Officially. My wetsuits, gloves and booties are all packed away (OK, they aren’t packed away, they are on the bathroom floor where I pulled them out of my surf bag– same difference). Last week brought a little swell. I ended up...
You Keep Me Safe

You Keep Me Safe

This blog is like me. On the surface it is one thing. But if the light hits it right, you can see through to the scaffolding that holds it all up. The exterior is arbitrary. This blog is not about surfing, love, design or vanity or even inspiration. Its about writing....
Honey Badger Says…

Honey Badger Says…

I worship hard work & persistence as if they were gods. Not because I believe life to be a meritocracy, but because life knocks you down. The only way to succeed is to get back up. Lately, life has been knocking me down a lot (often literally), only to double...
The Big Bang

The Big Bang

It was dark in the hallway. The thick, inky kind of darkness that erases everything, including yourself, paints it all black.  From the light switch to my bedroom is six quick paces. Enough time, apparently, to build some serious momentum. I was on a mission to reach...
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