I am Unshakable.
It’s cold now. The kind of cold that makes changing into your wetsuit in the parking lot seem like a nearly insurmountable obstacle. And taking it off? Forget it.
Crankypants
When I was with Brad (before I surfed), I used to pray that the ocean would be flat on Christmas. For Brad, waves trumped Holiday (and Katrina). And while I still wouldn’t ditch my loved ones on Christmas to shred, now I relate to the desire.
Time in the Water
As I paddled confidently against the drift, jockeying for position among the other wetsuit warriors at Lido last week, I was struck by a realization: I was at home here.
Alone in Bed
This morning I woke up alone, sunshine sneaking across my face on the breeze through the blinds. The emptiness of the house is palpable. The usual Elvish murmurings of Dylan waking in the next room are absent (he is with his grandparents).
