This last swell was full of exciting firsts; driving alone from break to break listening to Rage Against the Machine too loud, struggling through a tough paddle-out only to emerge into the line-up alongside Brad (awkward!), inadvertently picking up a hot date on the beach (more, please!), and catching lots of waves.
Waves in the Gulf are like Christmas, and this Sunday Santa came. The line-up was packed with giddy children scrambling for presents. I was one of them. You never know what the vibe in the line-up will be, but Sunday morning at Lido the stars aligned and the place was teeming with joy.